Aquarium Water Hardness | Tropical Fish Success

General hardness lets you know how hard or soft your aquarium water is.
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It is also important to avoid using anything thatpromotes acidification. As a general rule, the soft water aquariumneeds to be as chemically inert as possible, containing nothing thatwill either raise or lower the pH and hardness. Bogwood, peat andcoconut shells are best left out of the soft water tank because theyproduce tannins and remove hardness. To avoid problems with carbonicacid, understock the tank and use aeration do drive the carbon dioxideinto the air. Likewise nitric acid is best managed throughunderstocking the tank, feeding the fish only sparingly, and performingregular water changes to dilute the nitrate. While plants can be usedin the soft water aquarium, it isn't a good idea to use largequantities of rapidly growing species, particularly species thatextract bicarbonate from the water.
Information to help you understand and maintain your Aquarium Water Hardness
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Aquascaping Lab by Tommaso Perini feat Serena Sacchi present a video advice on witch is the optimal values and parameters of water in aquarium for fishes healt and good maintenance of tank. We talk aboute hardness water like PH GH KH value or NO2 NO3 nitrates nitrites, minerals, salts, heavy metals. How Do I Test Water Hardness in Aquariums? - Pets
Photo provided by FlickrAquarium pH and Water Hardness - YouTube
Photo provided by FlickrWhy Care About Your Aquarium's Water Hardness? - Fish Tank Tutor
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General hardness appears to be the critical factor for avariety of biological processes, most notably reproduction. The eggs ofmany egg-laying fishes only seem to develop properly within a certaingeneral hardness range. Because it is so important, this is theessential hardness test kit for most aquarists. At the very least, youshould be aware of the general hardness of your local water supply, andchoose your fishes accordingly.It is really only in tanks with low levels of carbonatehardness that "pH crashes" generally occur. For this reason,soft water aquaria, which usually have an acidic pH anyway, need to beespecially carefully monitored. Commercially prepared pH bufferingsolutions that "fix" the pH at 6.0 or 6.5 are widely tradedand very effective when used correctly. Typically, these contain aweakly acidic inorganic buffers that counter any slight changes in pHup or down. Even so, regular water changes are important, both todilute the "bad" acids produced by the aquarium, and totop-up the "good" acids that provide buffering capacity.The tendency of most aquaria is to become increasinglyacidic over time as things in the aquarium decay. In a tank with a highcarbonate hardness, this pH change is inhibited by the bufferingcapacity of the water. Provided you keep doing substantial and regularwater changes, the pH in a tank with a carbonate hardness of10°KH or more is unlikely to vary very much over time.Although plain aquarium/tonic salt (sodium chloride) issometimes suggested as a good way to increase hardness and improvebuffering, it in fact provides very little of either. Marine salt mix,on the other hand, will raise the pH and carbonate hardness quitesignificantly. But it also raises the salinity, something mostfreshwater fish do not appreciate. If you live in a soft water area andwant to keep hard water fish, using marine salt mix is not really aviable option unless you are keeping salt-tolerant species, such asmollies and guppies. Rift Valley cichlids, in particular, seem to bepeculiarly sensitive to salt, and elevated salinity levels have beenidentified as one factor responsible for the dropsy-like disease knownas Malawi Bloat (Andrews, et al. 1988).